Why Surfers Never Retire

Surfing is something you either get or don’t get – I suppose just like you either love Marmite or hate it or you believe a solution to the Palestinian v Israeli problem, will actually be found in our lifetime… or not. I am not saying there aren’t millions of people out there who have tried it and failed, or who are still among the sub 10 seconds to wipe-out amateurs that don’t get it, or want to get it. No I am simply suggesting that there is just something about a surfers relationship with the ocean that unexpectedly clicks into place one day, which once established feels so much a natural part of who you are, who you really are, that it is almost inconceivable that the day will ever come when you will lose it all together.
Wipe Out
Essentially it’s a sense, an acquired sub-sense; but to try and explain it, would be to try and describe exactly what the combination of balance, speed, courage and buzz all felt like when you rode your first bike, or to try and explain to the un initiated, the amorphous pleasure an orgasm can give. Indeed, just like some footballers will tell you that scoring an important goal can actually feel better than sex – if you catch the right wave, that special wave you somehow knew would always come, and perform the perfect entry and ride it out to a smooth exit, just in time – there are really few pleasures in this world that can top that.

So what happens when for whatever reason: injury, age or the simple loss of opportunity you are forced to stop for good? It’s a question many friends and some of my surfier Twitter friends have asked, ever since I revealed in an earlier post how my own surfing days ended abruptly just over a year ago. I won’t be so dramatic as to describe it as if losing a limb or even a child, as one ex pro (who shall remain nameless) once put it in an interview, but it is still a tangible feeling, a true sense of loss, almost like a bereavement all the same.

When you get your kicks riding the energy carried in millions of tons of unpredictable water until it crashes upon rocks and sand, some injuries become a fact of life. About six years ago a knee injury kept me off a board for couple of years or so. Although I always knew it was simply a matter of time before I had the confidence to get back in the game. Unfortunately when I did, I foolishly took my surgeons advice to exercise caution, as I would always have a weakness, with a pinch of salt. So I had all but forgotten his warning, when the catastrophic failure of my anterior excruciate ligament, while riding an 8 metre wave, finished me off in Panama last year.

Although generally called the Silverbacks some locals prefer to call the huge wave, which breaks onto an Island off Bocas Del Toro, the Gorilla because every encounter shakes bones, empties lungs and tests the resilience of your surfboards leash to the limit during every, body smashing wipe-out, which can hold you under for a long, long time especially if you lose the use of a leg! Anyway, after a flight to Panama City and some keyhole surgery, the busy surgeon struggled to comprehend what it was about the word Never that I didn’t understand, after he recommended I never Surf or Ski again – never for the rest of this year or never for a couple of years like last time? “No” he said, “if you don’t want to risk worse injury, that could leave you with a pronounced limp or even the need for a stick – you must accept that you can Never surf again.”
My Surf Pic
While I have gradually accepted it, the feeling of loss can still catch you when you least expect it and hits you like a wave of grief. For a while last year I clung to the idea that I could simply switch legs and lead with my weakened right. I once met someone in New Zealand, a surf technique magician, who I know could have helped me do it. But… unlike the handful of ambidextrous big wave surfers I know, like Todd Smith or the veteran Jeff Clark, whenever I tried switching my dominant leg before the accident, it always felt as difficult as if trying to write with your wrong hand. Besides that, now both age and injury have left me uninsurable for any serious Masters competition, it all does seem like a lot of work (and possibly risk) just to switch over to the Veterans category; so I will let that one ride for now.

But I know in my heart that I will be out there again, one day – in my own time and at my own pace – because ultimately it has never been about winning or losing – it all comes down to that intangible sense, which will always pull you towards the roar of the surf – because the only truth that ever matters, when you are out there alone, waiting, listening and feeling for the right swell just beyond the break, is your own very personal relationship with the ocean.


Save the Children – Stop Buying Misery

Cupertino, California — At its most recent media event, Apple unveiled the release date of one of its child labourers.

“We are very proud to announce that Apple will be releasing Li Min Zhang on April the 15th,” said CEO Tim Cook to an audience of tech reporters at the company’s quarterly press event. “For the past five years, Li Min has been a crucial component of Apple’s success, and we wish her all the best as she moves on to other endeavours.” Mr. Cook then reiterated that Li Min and her tiny hands and low wage requirements will be greatly missed at Apple’s Chinese facility, but with her 12th birthday coming up, she has become rather outdated in today’s fast-paced manufacturing world. “Rest assured, we are working very hard at trying to find the next generation of Li Min’s out there that can take this company to the next level.” Following the announcement, journalists asked if Apple had plans to release any more of its child labourers, to which Mr Cook replied, “not at this time, no.”*

Child Labour and Child Slavery
It is always disturbing to think that child labour and slave labour are still being used.  As terrifying as that is, we sort of know it happens in the poorer, developing parts of the world or simply shrug our shoulders and tell ourselves what can I do? before returning to playing with our iPhone, going shopping for clothes or comfort eating some chocolate – but what if you knew that even these innocent pastimes have the potential to reward those who profit from the sweat of little children?

Child Slave
The range of companies using child and slave labour is absolutely frightening. Of course, they tell us they “don’t know” or that “there’s nothing we can do”.  Yeah, right – whatever.  There is actually a lot they can do, an awful lot, but of course because that might affect their profits; they just get on with it in the hope that not too many people notice, make a fuss or even blog about it.

Approximately 220 million children between 5 and 17 are forced by factory owners, their own relatives or state organisations to work up to 15 hours a day 7 days a week. More than half are involved in hazardous industries and endure dangerous conditions, while many are subjected to beatings, humiliation and sexual violence from their employers. The most shameful statistic of all is that about 10 million of these children are actually slaves – sold or bonded by their families, or simply kidnapped, then sold on as a commodity, with little or no interest beyond the money being taken, to consider what the new owner will make the poor child do.

Despite countless studies, initiatives and action plans for change very little changes. Even after catastrophes like last year’s Rana Plaza factory collapse in Dhaka, where hundreds of children were among the 1,130 people who died and thousands injured, recent undercover investigations show that little if anything has improved in Bangladesh despite the public hand wringing and promises made by many western garment industry brands, with factories there.

So there is little I can add to the ongoing debate beyond appealing to your conscience next time you are thinking of buying anything from one or more of the companies involved. I was going to use the phrase name and shame but too many companies have displayed time and time again that they have little shame when it comes to exploiting child or slave labour to cut their costs. Anyway here are just a few of the many big names involved in this filthy trade.

Victoria’s Secret
They say they only use “fair trade cotton”, but there is nothing Fair about it. VS uses cotton grown in Burkina Faso, a country, where there is not enough labour available to run the farms, so they use children instead.  So yes, it might be fair trade because it comes from Africa, but it actually means that you are buying fabrics that are made from cotton picked by a little 11 year old girl who sleeps under a piece of plastic and gets shouted at to get up for work.

Companies who use Chinese Factories
The Chinese are not particularly big on human rights. So it probably won’t surprise you when I say there are hundreds of companies sourcing their products from Chinese factories and work camps that use slave and child labour. In these places, children are housed with adult employees in dorms that sleep up to 20, where everyone shares bowls of water and sponges to wash because there are no showers. Their working environment, often icy cold in winter but boiling hot in the summer, is where they endure 15 hour shifts with no time off.  Many children are not even allowed to speak to each other and are often forced to take part in military drills or are subjected to sexual harassment.  

So, who uses these factories? Apple are the biggest to admit to using child labour well, they couldn’t do anything else after eleven kids were caught working in one of their factories, but there are hundreds of others companies involved in this odious practice.

If you buy cheap Chinese goods there is a fair chance a child made it – that is perhaps why these items often prove to be so inferior to those made in other countries; countries where the Quality Control Department is not an angry man wielding a bamboo cane!

I guess we should’ve known that offering products as cheaply as they do can only come from unethical practices.  In fact, a recent documentary from the BBC showed an 11 year old children sewing the products that are sold in the Secret Possessions Range of Primark.  Primark places huge pressures on their suppliers to provide items quickly and cheaply, which leads to absolutely shameful abuses of children and slave labourers.

Phillip Morris
PM actually admitted that 72 children work on the farms from which Philip Morris buys its tobacco plants.  The youngest of these was just 10 years old.  The problem is that they only admitted this when they were forced to by Human Rights Watch.  The children had terrible neck and stomach rashes, their passports were confiscated, essentially enslaving them, and they were force to work overtime without pay. So if you do smoke – Philip Morris makes: Marlboro, Cambridge, Benson & Hedges, Commander, Chesterfield, English Ovals, Dave’s, L&M, Lark, Parliament, Merit, Players and Virginia Slims – time to change brands?

Choc Bar

We all know Nike have used child labour for years and years, often in factories where human rights are broken on an almost daily basis. People are kicked and slapped and verbally abused. This is particularly true for the Converse factories in Indonesia – so how much do you really want those Converse All Stars? While Nike are quick to remind us that they have stringent standards, they also admit that at least 75% of the suppliers they use don’t meet these standards. So why have any standards at all?  Indeed, in many of their factories workers don’t even get minimum wage, why? It isn’t as if Nike can’t afford it because producing a pair of top end Nike’s (or Converse) only costs between $0.88 and $3.  Add to this shipping and tax and it basically costs Nike between $4 and $6.  These are the shoes that you will actually pay between $45 and $200 for!  

Wal-Mart – Asda
In Bangladesh, some young girls making Wal-Mart – Asda shirts are forced to work 84 hours a week for $0.20 an hour and receive zero health care or maternity leave. Undercover filming by the Exposure programme also found clothes produced for Lee Cooper, BHS, Gap, Benetton and Abercrombie & Fitch and other US and European retailers in similar factories, where workers were physically and verbally abused and fire safety ignored.

Next time you go shopping there are 2 steps you can take towards saving some of these children. The first is easy, ask yourself do you really need it or are you simply buying it because it is cheap? Then if you absolutely must buy something, please check the label, not so much for the fancy name but to understand where it really came from so you can Stop Buying Misery .

* I have long since forgotten who emailed me the original opening paragraph, now paraphrased, so I take no credit for it.